History is Served

Doughnuts, pretzels, coleslaw, and the treats that became “cookies” are all of Dutch origins. These yeast-leavened bits of dough were dropped from the end of a spoon to form irregularly shaped balls. The Dutch served these at Christmas and other special occasions.…

Carrot puffs are fritters made with carrots or parsnips. Carrot puffs are more like hush puppies, although they’re leavened with eggs instead of yeast or baking powder. They can seem dense if the oil isn’t hot. A deep fat fryer works well with this recipe.…

In the 18th century, the words “dining” and “entertainment” were interchangeable. Individual dishes were referred to as entertainments. The visual appeal of asparagus spears “growing” out of the dinner roll might have been the catalyst for a lighthearted conversation that further enhanced the dining experience. …

The British term for wrapping meat around a stuffing, browning it and finishing it in a brown sauce is called an “olive,” although there are no olives in it. Perhaps the word referred to the final “olive-like” shape the meat took when it was tied up and cooked. Beef, veal and even fish olives have been part of the British cuisine since the 16th century.…

This is the cake of cakes, served at weddings, balls, and birthdays. The ingredients are expensive and the recipe time-consuming. Typically, a large cake like this was baked several months in advance of the actual date and then doused in brandy to prevent mold from growing. The result was spectacular!…

This unusual recipe uses the cucumber in a way that is a clear departure from modern practice. In the eighteenth century, vegetables were generally cooked or pickled, as opposed to eaten raw. Here, the cucumber is stuffed, stewed and sliced, along with being stitched with thread. The result is quite pleasant.…

The French excelled at egg recipes and came up with seemingly endless varieties of egg combinations. This recipe, along with the omelet, was probably used as a side dish at dinner, and not served at breakfast. …

If you are familiar with French onion soup, you might like this English variant. Both versions rely on dairy combined with onions to carry the flavor, but the English recipe uses an egg yolk liaison and a splash of vinegar to add richness and depth.…

Contrary to popular belief, apple pie isn’t American, it’s British. There were no apple trees or pies in America before the British settled. The spice most often called for was cloves, as it is in this recipe.…

This recipe actually might get you arrested because anything this rich and decadent is probably illegal. We use the chocolate cream filling, but it could work with a fruit filling or even fruit preserves.…

This recipe is similar to a chess pie or a pecan pie without the pecans. It has all the classic characteristics of a pudding: eggs, sugar and butter, baked in a single crust.…

Eighteenth-century cookbooks sometimes listed a mother recipe followed by several variations. Here, the original recipe was simply called “Buttered Onions.” This one combines onions and apples which sweeten while they cook. Serve it as a side dish with roasted chicken or over pork chops as a chutney.…

The word “cookie” is an Americanism derived from the Dutch word meaning small cake. Another term used by the British for a cookie is “cake,” as in Shrewsbury Cakes, or biscuits. Cracknels are a traditional English variation using caraway seeds. Caraways were sometimes candied in a confection called comfits. …

The pound cake was the standard cake of the 18th century, calling for a pound of butter, a pound of eggs, a pound of sugar, and a pound of flour. In every kitchen, there were balance scales which allowed the cook to weigh the ingredients. To change the recipe, the cook needed only to adjust the ratio.…

This is a British recipe involving ingredients that weren’t available in the same marine habitat in American waters. The range of the Atlantic Salmon in North America begins in the colder waters of the Northeast, whereas the shrimp is found in southern latitudes.…

This is a wonderful use of leftover chicken, turkey, pork or even shellfish. It might really be handy around Thanksgiving when there are plenty of the necessary ingredients just waiting for some new combination.…

This recipe is a Historic Foodways favorite. The apples and onions sweeten the potatoes and eggs, and the butter and seasonings tie everything together. This is a pie, which means it has a top crust. A ten-inch pie pan works best.…

Although based on a common patty or croquette, the classic Chesapeake crab cake isn’t to be found in any cookbook printed in the 18th century. This recipe is the closest we have. Fresh picked blue crabs are best for this recipe. However, the recipe works adequately if you use dungeness crab, canned, or even artificial crab. …

This is the 18th-century idea of dessert. Light, sweet and palate clearing, dessert represented the end of the meal. Often, desserts took the form of fruits and nuts. Additionally, sweetmeats such as marmalades and jellies could also be offered. …

Curries were very popular in the British diet during the period. Although inspired by the East Indies, this dish was invented in Great Britain. An ingredient in this recipe which makes it uniquely American is the catfish. Perhaps not holding the status of sturgeon or rockfish, catfish was showing acceptance by the second half of the 18th century.…

This recipe is Zen-like in its brevity. There are only five ingredients mentioned, two of which are in the title. The cook is asked to fry them as cakes but without any method suggested. Sweating the cooked vegetables with salt helps to dry them out so the batter adheres better.…

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of this recipe is Mary Randolph’s direction to boil the potatoes with skin on to keep the starch in for frying. In many historic recipes, the technique is not spelled out as one would require in modern recipes. However, 18th century cookbook authors assumed that the reader was already a cook and familiar with a variety of processes. …

This is another great pork accompaniment. You also have the option of throwing away the apples and just drinking the marinade.…

Beef and beer have been staples of the English diet for centuries; this recipe combines them. This is a long-time favorite of the foodways staff and was one of the first recipes translated for modern use with our tavern chefs.…

This is a delicious version of a hot egg salad. The key to success is to refrigerate the patties before they are fried. They are very delicate so turning them over should be done carefully. Serve them for brunch along with a salad.…

Every 18th-century cook considered broths as essential as beer and bread. The key is to start with cold water and let the broth slowly develop. Skimming the protein that floats on top will ensure a superior result. You know you are successful if your broth has jelled in the refrigerator overnight. …

This rich, delicious chocolate creation is a real winner. During colonial times, a single-crusted pie was referred to as a pudding, because pies were to have a top crust. For an even more authentic taste, use our American Heritage Chocolate™ to make the recipe.…

This recipe represents a type of presentation using dinner rolls as a serving dish. There were many variations on this basic idea. Asparagus, mushrooms, ham, sausage, and even chocolate were all used as fillers in these recipes. Here, rolls are paired with another classic ingredient found in the Chesapeake: oysters.…

This recipe is tasty yet unusual for the modern palate. The unexpected spinach and apple combination complement each other wonderfully. These toasts might work for an appetizer or a light lunch. It’s great as a side dish with pork, lamb, or even beef.…

This fine white bread would be rolled up in your napkin when you sat at the table and used to push food on the plate and gather up sauces.…

Contrary to popular belief, the British ate salads. Usually, meat was the criteria for judging the quality of a meal, and perhaps the host and hostess. Nevertheless, salmagundy was one of those special dishes loved by all. This dish was a centerpiece at a fine table and had the status of the best roasted beef.…

Roasted meat was the staple of the English and colonial diet of the 18th century. This recipe demonstrates the true process of roasting as it was practiced by our forefathers. Archeologists tell us that lamb or mutton were the third most-consumed meats in colonial Virginia.…

This is one of several stuffed cabbage recipes that uses the whole head of cabbage instead of individually stuffed leaves. Cabbages were quite survivable out of the ground, so a family might have used this recipe long after the cabbage was harvested. This recipe’s leftovers make a great hash for breakfast!…

This recipe is a little tricky. The title leads you to believe the “sweet biscuit type” macaroons are to be served with a cream sauce. However, in reality this author uses macaroni instead. Macaroni was very expensive during the 18th century because the Italians were the only people with the machinery to make the “foreign paste.” …

Why settle for boring old tan pancakes when you can have pink ones? The colonial cook did not yet use baking powder or sodas, so these pancakes are thinner than modern ones. They would have been eaten by hand, rolled up with a little powered sugar.…

This is one of our favorite chicken recipes from “The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy,” by Hannah Glasse. Similar to other fricassees, it was first browned and then finished in a broth. The chicken picks up the flavor from the grill, but still stays moist and flavorful from the lemon, wine, and broth. …

You don’t have to have colonial cooking equipment to prepare a colonial recipe, just a pot of boiling water and a sheet of tightly woven linen. The boiled pudding is a classic English Christmas tradition; it is often soaked in rum or brandy and lit on fire right before being served.…

Broiled sturgeon is a timeless classic. The simple nature of this recipe is a great example of how some things just can’t be improved. We used a farm-raised sturgeon for this, but any firm-fleshed fish such as salmon, mahi mahi, or swordfish would be excellent prepared using this method.…