Loaf Spanish-Fashion

This recipe actually might get you arrested because anything this rich and decadent is probably illegal. We use the chocolate cream filling, but it could work with a fruit filling or even fruit preserves.

18th Century

Cut off the tops of six rolls, take out all the crumbs, fill them with a ready made [chocolate] cream, and cover them with the tops that were cut off, soak them in sweet Spanish wine, about a quarter of an hour; then wipe and flour them; fry of a good colour, and glaze them with sugar.

Dalrymple, George, The Practice of Modern Cookery adapted to Families of Distinction as well as to those of The Middling Ranks of Life, Edinburgh, 1781

21st Century

  • 6 dinner rolls, preferably a few days old
  • 1 750 ml. bottle of sweet white wine
  • 1 pound of lard, or equivalent amount of clarified butter, vegetable oil, or canola oil
  • All purpose flour for dusting
  • Sugar for glazing
  • Chocolate cream; recipe follows
  1. Make the chocolate cream and set aside. Do not refrigerate.
  2. Carefully remove all of the outer crust from the dinner rolls with a fine grater. Cut the tops from the rolls and dig out the crumb with a paring knife. Take special care to not puncture or tear the bread shell.
  3. When all the rolls are done, soak them and the tops in the wine for about 15 minutes.
  4. Drain the rolls, then lightly powder them dry inside and out with flour. Do not fry them soaking wet or you will risk a grease fire.
  5. Deep fry the rolls and tops in a deep fat fryer or Dutch oven at 350 degrees until golden brown.
  6. Drain the rolls, and then fill them with the chocolate cream.
  7. Put the tops back on and lightly dust with sugar.
  8. Just before serving, put the rolls under the broiler for a few minutes to melt the sugar.

Chocolate Cream

  • 4 oz. American Heritage Chocolate, grated into a powder
  • 1 pint heavy cream or milk
  • 2 egg yolks
  • sugar to taste
  1. Combine the chocolate and cream in a sauce pan and slowly bring the cream up to a simmer, stirring continuously to melt the chocolate. When the chocolate is melted, taste the mixture and add sugar if desired.
  2. Temper the egg yolks to prevent scrambling. Whisk the egg yolks together until well combined. Whisk into the egg yolks a tablespoon of the hot chocolate mixture. Add some more of the chocolate until about you have a quarter of a cup. Then return it all back into the main sauce pan and bring the whole to a boil for a minute or two.
  3. Take it off the heat and pour it into your serving cups. Eat at room temperature. If you refrigerate it, it will thicken more and have to be eaten with a spoon.

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16 Responses to “Loaf Spanish-Fashion”

  1. December 30th, 2011

    mitch says:

    I have a roll question for clarification : ) What type of dinner roll should be used? Is it the biscuit type roll that comes in a tube or more like a bread dough knot or kaiser type roll?
    Thank you!

    • January 2nd, 2012

      Historic Foodways says:

      It can be done with many types of bread rolls, but not ones that are too soft or very crumbly like biscuits because they will not hold up for the hollowing and frying process. We have used the Chowning’s Tavern rolls here at our bakery before and a Kaiser type roll would be fine, too.

      Frank Clark

  2. December 30th, 2011

    mitch says:

    i’m thinking more of a crusty type roll since it calls for grating : )

  3. December 30th, 2011

    Pam Williams says:

    Confused here…Dalrymple: “Take the tops out, take out the crumb”

    Modern: “Carefully remove outer crust with a fine grater”

    By removing the outer crust, wouldn’t it make the rolls much susceptible to “sogginess”? Even if they are several days old? Or am I missing something in the reading here?

    And my last question…do you eat this, or just rub it all over yourself in blind gustatorial ecstasy from the smell alone?;-)

    Happy New Year!!!
    Ms. Pammy

    • January 1st, 2012

      Historic Foodways says:

      The rolls we use are usually the old and crusty French roll type and substantial enough that they don’t fall apart in the wine bath. I took the outer crust off because the wine isn’t absorbed as much through the hard crust. Use your own judgment as to how long to soak the bread. Older bread requires longer soaking; fresh bread such as in the video, much less. Let us know how yours turn out!

      Jim Gay

  4. December 30th, 2011

    Chris Hansley says:

    Happy New Year to the Staff of History is Served!

    My question: Could the rolls from the “To Make French Bread” recipe be used? Obviously you need to start several days ahead, so the rolls are a few days old when you use them.

    Please keep the recipes coming. I’m looking forward to a whole year of 18th century recipes.


  5. December 31st, 2011

    Tammy DeLauter Fletcher says:

    Aw no, if we are going, let’s go all the way. No sissy fruit filling for me, I want that dark chocolate filling and max out the fat meter!

  6. January 3rd, 2012

    Pam Williams says:

    Cool…thanks for the replies, guys! I had soft, doughy “yeast rolls” on the brain – the same brain which failed to “see” that “soak process” might be manipulated, too. I can see that the outer coating might impact absorption rate – didn’t think about that.

    Ms. Pammy

  7. January 3rd, 2012

    mitch says:

    Thank you! the picture looked so nice and light and biscuit like, my brain wasnt connecting the grate part of the directions : )

  8. January 5th, 2012

    Cat says:

    We have just started up an ACW training band over here in the UK and are having a social in March, the stipulation being everybody must bring an eighteenth century dish. I am defintely trying this! I’ll let you know how it goes…

    Cat, Lexington Minute Company (UK)

  9. January 6th, 2012

    Jim Williams says:

    Always loved stopping by the Governor’s kitchen. Thanks for introducing me to the site. I tried the baked version you mentioned in the video. It is like an 18th century version of a cream-filled donut—very tasty!

  10. January 10th, 2012

    Lisa says:


    I do love the American Heritage Chocolate as is, but will force myself to grate it to make the Chocolate Cream. Question: how do you think it would taste in little phyllo dough cups as a 21st-century option? I am looking for a really tremendous chocolate filling for them and thought I might try this.

    Thanks for these recipes!

  11. January 11th, 2012

    Historic Foodways says:

    I think the flavor would be excellent but the consistency might be a little liquid to eat with your hands from Phyllo cups. I would use the recipe for the chocolate torte on history is served for the filling instead. The only difference is two more eggs. The additional eggs will set the mixture up some and make it firmer and easier to eat with your hands in small pastry cups.

    Please feel free to try it either way.

    -Frank Clark

  12. January 11th, 2012

    Lisa says:

    Thanks, Frank, I will try the chocolate torte filling this time and appreciate the tip!

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